Our primary objective in Norway was to enjoy nature, so we originally had no plans to make a stop in Bergen. However, as the city was considered to be one of the finest in the country, it would be a crime to miss such an opportunity.
The Hirtshals – Bergen ferry line, served by the Fjordline company, terminates at a sea terminal right in the city center, so while we were standing in line, there was already something to take a picture of.
As we disembarked from our ferry and left the premises of the terminal, the first goal was to find decent parking. While still on board, I quickly glanced at parking options near the city center and picked the Grieg Parking Garage under Grieghallen.
Everything in Norway was expensive; we knew that and braced for the worst, but in the end we paid only about €12 for 4 hours of parking, which was... okay-ish. The parking was clean, well lit and easily accessible.
Grieghallen – Philharmonic
Yes, that was the Concert Hall named after Edvard Grieg, the composer of the rather well-known "I Dovregubbens Hall" ("In the Hall of the Mountain King").
It was a modernist building opened in 1978, but the funniest part was that it took almost 90 years to build it: from an idea (proposed by Grieg himself) to completion. The project slipped and stalled many times, and almost became a bitter joke, but upon completion it was recognized as a major success: thanks to its excellent acoustics it was soon declared one of the best cultural venues in the country.
We agreed to spend a maximum of 4 hours in Bergen, before moving on with the search for a night stay, so we had to hurry up. While the historical city center was quite compact, it was impossible to cover it within such a short timeframe.
Walking through
So we decided to focus on visiting the best part of it – the seafront. Let me show you a bunch of filler photos I took on my way there, so you could grasp the idea of the local architectural style.
I couldn't capture one of the well-known Bergen views. For instance, we missed the look of St. John's Church from the nearby stairs, as the church was under repairs. The church had decent interiors though, which, unfortunately, we could not enjoy.
A few smaller details.
And more of them.
Pavement as a distinct form of art. Just look at these tiled sidewalks, where stone, concrete and metal parts join together to form a peculiar jigsaw.
Torgallmenningen
Slowly approaching Torgallmenningen – the main public square of Bergen.
This part of the city dramatically burned down in 1916, swallowing up around 380 buildings dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries. The area was redeveloped in 1930, so Torgallmenningen, which was designed as a firebreak even before that, was widened even further. The buildings around the square form an ensemble, which is considered to be one of the best-preserved examples of Scandinavian neoclassicism of that time.
At the edge of the square, tourists can see the monument dedicated to Norwegian sailors – Sjømannsmonumentet.
Each side of the monument tells the story of one of the four eras: from Vikings and naval explorers through merchants to the "modern" (20th century). The monument raised a lot of concerns and debates back in the day, but in my opinion it fits quite well into the surroundings.
Entering the Old Town
We were making our way to the oldest part of the city. The look and history of the area were tightly intertwined with and directly shaped by a series of severe city fires.
The major 1702 fire incinerated 8/9 of the buildings, sending the precious medieval cityscape to oblivion. Almost nothing that can be seen in Bergen today predates that period. Then, over the following two centuries, the city was engulfed in flames several other times, including the fire of 1916 I mentioned earlier.
DnB
Right after people leave Torgallmenningen, they immediately stumble upon a modest historical ensemble with a green patinated copper standing-seam pitched roof. This is none other than the complex of Den norske Bank (abbreviated "DnB"), and it consists of several buildings from different epochs.
The first building with red clinker brick dates back to 1862 and is called Bergens Børs. Alas, I had no idea how cute the building actually was, so I took just one photo of it, the one below:
Then the Bergens Privatbank was erected in 1913 in the Jugendstil/Neo-Baroque style. It miraculously survived the fire of 1916 as we can see on this photo, where it stands undefeated, surrounded by ruins.
Finally, in 1973 yet another addition was constructed, designed by the architect Halfdan Grieg. It received a modern contrasting look on purpose, to emphasize where exactly one historical building ends and another begins. Oddly, these two don't argue with each other, but create a certain positive harmony.
Nowadays parts of the complex were converted into a hotel, offices and commercial real estate, but the history that these walls hold was carefully preserved.
Next to the steps of the bank sits a sculpture of a homeless person. It was put there as a reminder that there is always someone in need whom we pretend not to notice.
The installation was hollow before, but after it was once torn away from its place by some vandals, it was filled with concrete before being put back.
Torget
"Torget" literally means "market place" and this is what people first see when they search for "Bergen" on Google Maps.
The place looked different back then. The map from 1646 shows the embankments in an entirely different shape. However, after the devastating fire of 1702, the coastline was filled with burned rubble and parts of buildings, allowing the city to reclaim substantial territory that once belonged to the sea, as the later map from 1768 depicts.
I wonder how many cool things now lie buried beneath the streets of the now enlarged harbor! The debris and numerous artifacts from the past three centuries hold undeniable archeological value, should someone decide to perform excavations.
One day.
Through medieval blocks
Meanwhile, it was time for lunch, and light hunger started bugging us. We chose a restaurant and threaded quickly through the narrow streets.
Although the city was completely renewed after the major fire in 1702, it was decided to keep the original, historical layout of streets intact.
During our rush through the blocks we discovered, I believe, the most modest property in Bergen :)
Even though it was our first meal in Norway, we already knew it to be expensive, so we came mentally prepared. But not that expensive. We bought one pizza and three drinks, and left about €60 in the restaurant. "Emmm... Where is the nearest grocery store?" I thought.
Bryggen
We still had around 2 hours at our disposal, so we decided to hurry up towards the stronghold, which from our place was about 1 km to the north. But in order to get there, we had to walk along Bryggen – a rather busy street that goes along the northern side of the Bergen Harbor.
Bryggen was lost to the fire of 1702, like pretty much the rest of the city. It was later rebuilt in wood. Wooden houses are not durable enough against the elements, and also after more than 2 centuries they tend to appear obsolete and backward. At least that was what people used to think back then, so in 1898 it was proposed to demolish the entire street and rebuild in stone by erecting new, contemporary buildings.
According to that decision, the southern part of the street fell victim to redevelopment, and the new buildings were constructed. These are the buildings we see today. They were designed to mimic the industrial warehouses from that era, but they are actually purely commercial real estate dating back to 1910.
It's been a long time since that happened, so today ironically they are listed monuments as well.
As the demolishing squads were closing in on the northern part too, the authorities suddenly realized they were making a terrible mistake, so the initiative was halted.
For a while.
Hansakvarteret Bryggen
The northern part of Bryggen held out a while longer.
Nevertheless, where there are dense wooden structures, there is danger, so accidentally or by intention, in 1955 the area caught fire again. Luckily the firefighters were able to prevent the neighborhood from being swallowed by the conflagration completely, so only about 1/5 was actually lost.
Shortly after, people started talking about the demolition again. However, some important archeological discoveries were made during the excavations that followed the disaster, which urged the authorities to review the decision.
So instead of leveling the area, it was decided to rebuild the six front buildings lost to the inferno, in order to restore the postcard view of the street. The territory behind the facades was given away to construct the Radisson Blu Royal Hotel and the Bryggens Museum. However modern, they remotely echo the original historical construction.
One of the most tragic mistakes of urban development was averted.
For now.
So, thanks to how the history turned out, we now have an outstanding tourist attraction called Hansakvarteret Bryggen.
Bryggen is a striking example of medieval commercial and artisan enterprise, which stands under the protection of UNESCO today. Some tourists pass by the row of colorful facades, visiting the numerous shops and trades, oblivious to the fact that there is so much more to see behind.
Several narrow passages tucked away behind wooden arches are easy to miss. They pierce the area forming wooden corridors distorted and skewed under the weight of time, making visitors feel as if they had ended up on a Harry Potter movie set.
On both sides of the corridor hulking wooden sheds look down at the visitors. The sheds conceal the loading portals, each one having a winch hook used to pull goods to the storage areas located on the middle and upper levels, right under the roofs.
Some of the passages lead to open yards that reveal intricate multi-storey wooden structures. The ground floors were typically occupied with different artisans' workshops, while the middle level was also taken by the living quarters.
A curious detail was the use of naturally curved tree trunks as highly durable supports; we will see the same approach in the interiors of stave churches.
Bryggen is where the stone meets the wood.
Meanwhile on the pier
Across the road from Bryggen, a few gorgeous retro ships with pronounced sheer and vertical stems were berthed at the stone pier. By the look of them, they seem to be still operational and were probably used to entertain tourists doing voyages or fishing trips among the fjords.
A bit further down the road, an unusual monument can be seen. This is Minnesmerket Minebøssen – a real WWI naval mine salvaged from the sea by fishermen. It was disarmed and installed as a reminder of all those who never came back from the front lines, and it doubles as a collection box.
This maritime relic has two sculptures: a fallen soldier on one side, and a family that lost a loved one on the other.
On the mine there is a saying that reads "Fordum til sjømandens jammer og død. Nu til hans velfærd, tryghed og brød.", which can roughly be translated as "Once for the sailor's sorrow and death. Now for his welfare, safety, and bread."
Not far from the mine we found Vippebom – an old wooden crane that was used to unload cargo ships, according to the earliest surviving written record, which dates back to 1276.
There used to be many of them, but this is the last one standing: a partial replica built from salvaged original parts in 1990.
Another historical shed of some kind, today partially repurposed as a public toilet.
Unfortunately, I couldn't google anything about this structure with a vivid green roof.
As we approached our goal – the old fortress of Bergen – a monumental stone building with a clocktower came into sight. It had an elegant two-sided porch with a wrought-iron fence intertwined with red and white flowers.
A former headquarters of a steamship company built in 1911, later the administration of the port, and since 2006 a hotel – this building survived the devastating detonation of a nearby ship loaded with explosives in 1944.
As if constant fires weren't enough for the city of Bergen.
The next block is taken by a sizable building originally constructed in 1958 for the company Det Bergenske Dampskibsselskab. Interestingly, it was meant to replace the original building from 1911, destroyed by the disaster in 1944.
The building itself is rather minimalistic, but what really catches the eye is a remarkable statue of Venus on the corner of it.
In my opinion, this well-crafted statue captures the true beauty of a feminine body.
Bergenhus Fortress
Finally, we reached the place we were looking for – the fortress and the castle of Bergen. Unfortunately, it was 15 minutes to the closing of the inner exhibitions (as if we ever had time to peek into such places), so the only option left was to walk around it and enjoy the exterior.
The castle was founded in 1100 right next to the fortress and a royal residence.
The complex consists of two parts: the Rosenkrantztårnet (The Rosenkrantz Tower) and the Håkonshallen (The Hall of Hakon).
Rosenkrantz Tower
The medieval tower was constructed in the 13th century and later, in the 16th, rebuilt in the Renaissance style by a Danish governor, Erik Rosenkrantz, in order to demonstrate wealth and power (of course).
Erik Rosenkrantz is said to have opposed the Hansa, advocating limits on the privileges of German merchants, so the tower was meant to be a constant reminder of who was in charge there.
Hall of Hakon
The second important part is the Hall of Hakon erected in 1261, so it's a structure contemporary to the original castle tower.
King Håkon IV Håkonsson, who ruled between 1217 and 1263, is quite popular in Norway even today. He achieved many great things: secured and expanded Norway's territories beyond the sea, strengthened the king's power (doubtful achievement, if you ask me), turned Bergen into a royal residence, and, among other things, built the hall named after him, which was used to host royal ceremonies.
The facade of the hall is richly decorated with bas-relief depicting human (and inhuman as well) heads, a motif that is still popular today.
The Hall of Hakon was substantially damaged by the explosion of 1944 and had to be partially rebuilt.
There used to be a second smaller hall standing right next to the existing one, but it didn't survive the trials of time. The hall presumably had 3 rooms, and its true purpose remains unclear to date.
The lawns and the garden surrounding the castle are very well tended.
On the fortress behind the castle there were, as usual, a couple of iron tools for slaughtering humans. The elevated area gives an opportunity to enjoy the view of the port.
The statue of King Haakon VII (don't confuse with Håkon IV Håkonsson) erected in 1972 is proudly standing on top of the fortress, bravely eyeballing the endless seas. King Haakon VII was in charge of defending Norway during WWII, refusing to accept the rule of the occupants. After the German takeover he was forced to flee to Britain and remain the leader in exile.
The Moomin shop
On our way back to the parking lot we spotted the Moomin shop.
As I already wrote earlier, The Moomins dramatically influenced my childhood and are partially responsible for the person I am today, so I couldn't miss this one.
I bought a lapel pin with the House of Moomin, and my son convinced my wife to buy him a spinner with Moomintroll and Snorkmaiden. "Fröken Snork" literally means "Fräulein Snork" in German, so I can't help noticing the similarities between the two languages.
What I'd do differently if I had more time in Bergen
Now that I lie in my bed back in Berlin, writing this article and virtually exploring Bergen through Google Maps panoramas, I can say for sure that we nevertheless missed a lot.
There was a charming neighbourhood in the north-east part of the city, offering a glimpse of tight streets where it's so easy for a tourist to get lost, in a good way. The Dom Church was also skipped, but definitely worth paying a visit.
Well, a good reason to come again!
Searching for a night stay
The sun was sinking toward the horizon, and the shadows were getting longer. It was a bit surreal to be so far from home, in the evening, and to have zero clue where to spend the night.
We had absolutely no experience in such extreme camping, and everything we had read so far wasn't really helpful on site. I'll get to it in one of the following articles.
Leaving Bergen behind, in a desperate search for a place to stay, we came across such a picturesque spot that it immediately reminded me of the anime Spirited Away:
I was secretly waiting for Chihiro to pass by on her way to the Swamp Bottom station, but alas!
Another noteworthy place was our first waterfall (among many) discovered in Norway. Next to it, a small-caliber gun was installed as a monument. This place was the last stand of three brave Norwegian soldiers hopelessly fighting against invading Germans in 1940. Another silent echo of the events of WWII, which impacted Norway so heavily back then.
Finally, after giving up our search for a wild stay, we drove off to the next campsite that came into sight, unpacked, curled up inside our sleeping bags and called it a day.
